AJ Ferrari
Wine Editor
> BOND PROFILE
PHOTO FROM DIEVOLE VINI
BIODYNAMICS
THERE ARE SEEMINGLY ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES to cull from when choosing a wine to serve. For those who want to “keep it green” in the beverage department, there are two relatively new wine trends to consider: organic and biodynamic.
Most people are somewhat familiar with the idea of organic farming, which prohibits the use of any industrially synthesized substances, either to increase productivity or to combat pest problems. Biodynamic (BD) agriculture, on the other hand, is a technique that elevates the idea of organic farming to new heights by creating optimal soil conditions. Through the use of natural fertilizers and close attention to cosmic cycles, biodynamic agriculture is like organic growing with an extra boost of spiritual karma.
One principal tenet of BD winemaking is that each individual winery should be self-sustained and self-contained. Whereas organic winemakers might import compost to fertilize their land, biodynamic vintners produce their own all-natural concoction on site, using materials strictly from their land and the animals that dwell on it. For instance, some BD vineyards will pack a cow’s horn with manure and bury it for the winter. The horn contains specific microbial properties that break down the manure into a pure black soil full of nutrients that are beneficial to the grapevine.
Biodynamic winemakers also build upon the organic base by paying close attention to natural rhythms, specifically the connection between the vines and their position to the moon, sun and stars. An ascending or descending moon, for example, will have an effect on the cycle of sap within the vines. By respecting the significance of the earth’s cosmic cycles in relation to their crop, biodynamic vintners are able to time their ground preparation as well as their harvesting to the advantage of the vines they are raising.
PHOTO FROM DIEVOLE VINI
Proponents of the biodynamic winemaking process attest that – because each vineyard is self-contained and self-sustained – BD winemakers have a heightened ability to create wines that reflect the unique qualities of the specific piece of property on which they are cultivated. This feature of production is naturally very enticing to many vintners and, as a result, more and more BD vineyards are popping up in Europe and the United States.
While many aspects of biodynamic farming appeal to growers and drinkers alike, there are some drawbacks to consider. The very nature of biodynamic agriculture – most notably smaller crop sizes and increased manual labor – can cause a somewhat significant hike in price, so be sure to take that into account when calculating your budget. BOND
For a comprehensive list of biodynamic vintners, check out Fork & Bottle.
WORDS KALEY DOBSON / EDITOR AJ FERRARI